Lüneburg’s old town completely escaped bombings during WW2, making it a great place to visit and enjoy the beautiful medieval buildings and rich history of the town. Lüneburg is also a short hop from Hamburg (30mins) and Lübeck (1 hour), making it the perfect day trip if you’re in the area.
Further putting it on the map is the fact that the German soap opera Rote Rosen is filmed there. If you’ve seen the show, you’ll immediately recognise the Rathaus (town hall).
What to do in Lüneburg
Explore the old town
The old town is full of beautiful medieval buildings and old structures which miraculously survived the Second World War unscathed. A casual stroll through the town is a great way to start your day.
The pregnant house
Yes, you read that right. A famous spot in the old town you don’t want to miss is the grotesque bulging belly building that is “The Pregnant House” (Das Schwangere Haus). Local lore would have you place your hand on the belly for luck. Don’t worry, this isn’t a portal to the underworld (probably), but a bubble caused by a build-up of moisture reacting with the 12th century masonry. Nice.
Once you’re sufficiently grossed out, head over the road and into the Rathausgarden. Especially if you’re visiting in spring, you’ll be treated to a beautiful garden and photo spot.
Visit St. John’s (St. Johannis) Church
St. John’s is beautiful and ancient, with parts of it dating back to 1300. It’s a perfect example of the red brick Gothic style. So much so that it’s part of the “European Route of Brick Gothic”.
It’s also wonderfully wonky and looks as if it’s slanting — because it is. The local legend (and perfect example of German humor) claims that the master builder responsible for the church, upon noticing his mistake, jumped out of the church tower but landed in a hay wagon. Thinking God had forgiven him and therefore offered him this miraculous save, he celebrated in a local tavern, only to fall off his chair and hit his head on the fireplace, killing himself.
Like I said, German humor.
Climb the Water Tower for Aerial Views
The water tower was the highlight of our trip — you get great views over the old town and a lot of genuinely super interesting information in the museum about Lüneburg and the history of the tower. We found the exhibitions to be surprisingly modern and interactive, and there was a selection of local art on display too. It was particularly nice that every floor brought something different. It’s also crazy to see the scale of a water tank by physically walking down through it.
Pro-tip: take the elevator to the top, first enjoy the view, and then walk down through the tower to look at all the exhibits. The opposite is more painful due to the amount of stairs (or elevator-waiting).
Landscape Photography in the Lüneburger Heide (Lüneburg Heath)
Unfortunately we didn’t make it to the Heath, so this is one still on my to do list! Even though I cannot personally report, I’m including it on this list due its renowned beauty and top spot for landscape lovers in Lower Saxony. You should especially aim to visit this nature reserve between August-September when the Heath is in full bloom. Check out this blog for some wonderful photos and more detailed information.
What to eat in Lüneburg
Given the old town vibes, Lüneburg had us craving traditional German food. I can recommend two spots right next each other.
At the top of the list is Mälzer Brau- und Tafelhaus, where we enjoyed pork medallions with Chili-Hollandaise sauce — a combination I didn’t know I needed in my life. Mälzer is also a brewery, so if you’re a beer drinker then you’ll be especially happy there. I personally recommend their dark beer, or if you’re particularly thirsty then take a Probierset and try the whole range.
As a backup choice, checkout KRONE Brauhaus just next door, which is another brewery with traditional German food in a similar variety.
Hang on Mike, a food section where you haven’t mentioned Pizza? Okay, fine. If traditional German food isn’t your thing, checkout ZweiLieben for craft beer and great Neapolitan Pizza.
Coffee & Cake spots
As any cute German old-town should, Lüneburg is full of cosy little cafes and cake shops. Our favourite was blaenk, which you’ll find directly on the walk from the train station to the main old town square. Given that we were there on a chilly spring day, I couldn’t resist trying a barraquito (Espresso, condensed milk, likör 43, & orange). It certainly put a spring in my step!
If your sweet tooth still isn’t satisfied then make sure to checkout the Schokothek (also a fantastic place for sweet souvenirs) or stop at Baklava am Sande for seriously huge cakes.